On The Move

Hey yáll! I´m on the move right now, and so the blogs that are going up are pretty bare-bones; limited editing, few pictures, and mass posting. Check back around January 20 for a more complete account of our adventure , or read up on what I´ve been doing for the last 4 months in Europe in the archives! :)

Sunday, September 29, 2013

The Most Uncomfortable Vegetarian in the Room


I love putting on a pair of boots and heading down to the rodeo. Occasionally they're a bit hard for me to watch, but in general, they're all in good fun. But the bullfight I went to last night was not fun.

I've been vegetarian for 14 years. That's a LOT of time, more than half of my life, in fact. Part of the reason I chose to become vegetarian was because I felt such empathy for animals; I don't think it's right for us as humans to be killing off other animals for sport or food. We have so many other options in our lives that, in my eyes, there's really no reason to kill to survive.
The band (sorry bout the pillar)


Getting the bull to go in a full circle
My experience

I went to the bullfight knowing full well that they would kill the bulls, I just wasn't expecting it to be as intense as it was. At first, the atmosphere was electric. Everyone was excited, vendors were walking up and down the aisles, and the band was playing an upbeat tune. But then, a pair of men on horseback rode out and the entire ring went silent. In fact the entire event was silent, except for select moments when applause was expected (i.e. killing the bull, stabbing the bull, getting the bull to stab itself by getting it to trip, or switching to the red cape). Whenever tourists broke the spell, they were immediately shushed.

The first thing I noticed was that the bull seemed to be trained. It followed commands, and became more and more reluctant to charge. This made it harder and harder to watch because the bull seemed like a person. As the "fight" continued, it kept stopping to see if it had to go on. Even from the top row of the stadium I could see the confusion in its eyes.

Humiliating the bull by causing him to flip over
In the beginning, they were just taunting it, trying to get it to flip over by charging too close to the ground. They also tried to get it to run in 3 full circles around the matador, shouting "Ole!" every time it completed a circle.

Then came the lances, not even ten minutes into the corrida.

A horseman rode out, and speared the bull through the shoulders, leaving the spear in for quite some time. At this point, the bull was foaming at the mouth, peeing, and bleeding because it was so traumatized. It was really, really, hard to watch. Many people in our group were crying, especially 2 other vegetarians.

Notice the 4 sets of nunchucks in its
back, as well as 2 stab wounds.
But it got worse. The bull was then stabbed by each of the matadores in the shoulder blades using "banderillas" which look like barbed sticks. They left these hanging from the shoulders of the bull to weaken it and lower its head for the next stage of the corrida.

The next section, the one with the red cape (called a muleta in spanish), was worse. The matadores held swords, and when they got the chance, they would plunge them into the back of the bull and let them hang there. This is when I had to stop watching.

Classic matador pose when they brought out the red cape
But I was listening, and a friend of mine filled me in afterwards. The next step was killing the bull, which was done by stabbing it through the top of its spinal cord.The matadores circled around it, wiping off their blades as the audience gave a
standing ovation.

(But if I remember correctly from neuroscience, this would only paralyze it from the neck down unless they actually hit brain. I was going to google it, but then I thought "Eh, better not".)

Then, the worst thing I had ever seen; they lashed the body to four horses (while it was still foaming at the mouth and bleeding, mind you) and made them parade it around the ring while people applauded and whistled.

Bull standing, not wanting to fight, looking for its trainer
It wasn't over, but I was definitely not sticking around; there were still 5 bulls to go. This weekend alone they will kill 18 bulls.

So why do they do it?


Part of the opening processional. those two horses in front
would later carry lances and the four horses in the back
would drag out the body
In Spain, it's tradition. Instead of viewing it as a competition, they view it as an art form based in style, skill, and bravery. I spoke with my host mother afterwards, and apparently we witnessed a "bad fight". The bull should always be running and charging the largest moving object, be much angrier, and the kill should be done much like a pole vault, with the matador getting the beast right between the shoulder blades and vaulting over him.

It's viewed here much like a ballet, with specific  and graceful movements. The matadores start studying this balance between grace and danger starting at a very young age. The closer a matador can get to the bull without getting
hit, the better he is. In the words of my host mother, "It is a fight of controlling danger". The matador could easily die at the horns of the angry, 1,000 lb animal. (Luckily, there are always ambulances waiting outside the ring.)

My host mother says that occasionally there is an "indulto" or pardon. This is when the bull fights so valiantly, and behaves beautifully, that they send it to a farm to breed the next generation of bulls. She says these are her favorite fights.

I'm glad I got to experience this important part of Spanish history, but it's just not a dance I can get behind. But if I had to go back and make the choice to go, I think I still would. It was very eye opening, and I know a lot more about the history and tradition now.

Friday, September 27, 2013

Watkins is in Puerto de Santa Maria y Cádiz

Ello! My gosh look at me being productive and such. 4 in 4 days! Maybe one more about my touring in Sevilla, and then we'll be caught up.

This weekend, my program took a day trip to Puerta de Santa María y Cádiz!

Puerta de Santa María
Puerta de Santa María is a small town know for its wine making. They specialize in a specific kind of sherry, and use an absolutely fascinating technique to bring their wines to market ready. They only have 3 types of grapes, but based on how they're mixed, what temperature it is and what barrels they're kept in, they can make 15 varieties. 









At this vineyard,  the wines have no year assigned to them. In most places, when you buy a wine, it's labeled "2004 Cabernet" or something like that. They don't use a year because they mix all their wine up! They do this to help the bacteria flourish. Sounds gross, but makes delicious drinks.

They barrels are kept in 3 rows, and every year they move the top-third from each barrel to the next barrel down. Then the top-third of the last barrel is what gets bottled.This means at minimum any given bottle is at least 3 years old. 
See the rows of three and high ceilings?

So what about the bottom 2 thirds of the bottom barrel? When does that get taken out?

Wine-making is a family tradition here, and each family that owns a stake in the vineyard gets to claim one variety of wine. They can claim those bottom barrels whenever they want, but the longer they wait, the better it gets. The families with the lowest stakes get 15yr old barrels, and the vineyard owners get barrels over fifty years old. The oldest barrel in the vineyard hasn't been tapped since the Spanish civil war (1936-1939)!
Our guide showing us the anatomy of a wine barrel!

Nothing like a 10am wine tasting... :P

Another interesting fact: the barrels are not airtight. In fact, the corks on the barrels are for keeping out critters more than anything. The air is used to flavor the wine and help the bacteria grow. Like flowers, this bacteria grows differently in different environments, hence the different varieties! They call this process "Crianza biológica". Depending on the "bloom" of the year, a barrel can have anywhere from 15-28 grades de alcohol! They've created this cool microclimate inside their building! It's built like a cathedral, high windows, high ceilings, lots of room for air movement on one end and less on the other so they can move them with the seasonal climate changes.

My favorite bottle of the day: the driest dry
sherry. It's their "Fino" line.
After the tour was a tasting! This wine is what we consider "Sherry" in the states. We started with dry sherries for 1,2, and 3, and ended with sweet sherries for 4 and 5. I liked the first the best, as we progressed into the darker and sweeter ones I felt like I was drinking maple syrup. This was their "most popular wine" with American tour groups... bleh.

We tasted:
1. Fino
2. Amontillado
3. Oloroso
4. Cream
5. Colosia 




Cádiz
Cádiz is an adorable little town! They're very proud of the fact that they were the only town un-invaded by France back in the day; ask anyone in town and they'll tell you all about it! What helped them out was their geography- they're thisclose to being an island. 





See that yellow building tucked in the corner? The inside
looks like this --->







This used to be some guy's house. HOUSE. Can somebody build me something with architecture like this??



They're real proud of cannons here. That whole
"we didn't get invaded" thing again.




Pretty Tree


Dear Cádiz, I support that you support nature.

Panoramic of the only beach in the historic district! Me gusta.


AMAZING Ice cream from this tiny hole in the
wall type place


Off to Narnia to explore the lighthouse!


There was a man making the coolest sandcastle... the details were incredible!! Definitely earned that euro I threw in so I could take pictures. Also, prettier and less terrifying than people that dress up as things and scare you for money on the streets.
Snow white's cottage




Sleeping Beauty and Prince Philip's castle

The boardwalk

All the wind in my hair. Yay buns!

historical district of Cádiz


































































Cathedral
And then back on the bus to go home! Day trips are nice cause it means more time in Sevilla, but it's still a bummer to not be able to spend more time there. Although I did walk the circumference of the town twice, and the diameter a few times as well. (I miss my mathy bff).

More later! 
XOXO, Katie

Monday, September 23, 2013

Watkins is in Lagos, Portugal!

No I'm not. I'm in my bedroom in Sevilla. Where in the world WAS Watkins would be a more accurate title for my blog. Whatever.


I WENT TO PORTUGAL!! It was absolutely lovely. Lagos is a beautiful beach town, with lots of beautiful buildings and fun outdoorsy things to do. Lagos isn't too far from Sevilla, so my friend Kelsey and I got last minute bus tickets and went! We left at like 6:30 in the morning, which was an experience in itself! The early morning bus/metro crowd is drunk people coming home from the bars and doctors going to the hospitals. A very inebriated man gave us leis to wear on the beach haha.

I woke up long enough to take a picture of us crossing the
bridge into Portugal!
We ran ran ran to catch the early morning bus and we were off! Mapquest said that driving it takes 2 and a half hours, and the man at the bus station said it only makes a few stops, so we figured we'd be at the hostal nice and early, feet in the sand by 10 or 11.

Wrong. It took over 6 hours to get there! I would love to tell you that I took in lots of scenery, but buses make me sleepy.

The first thing we did upon arrival was find our hostel, taghostel. (Highly recommend it! SO CUTE!)

Checked into the hostel, we slept in their "girls attic"
The view off our deck!




Science museum right next to our hostel!
It was lit up every night like a disco!


lunch view
Best salad this trip and possibly the best hummus ever!
 The next stop was food, so we found this place that advertised vegetarian food! SO yummy!

Then we hiked out to the lighthouse, meandering around the beaches and cliffs as we went higher! It was so beautiful... truly breathtaking.



The last accessible beach! 

Alluvial fan! GEOLOGY.





The tide was coming in so hardcore...
DRENCHED after this picture!













The last bit of sun

As we went farther out, it got later and we realized it was sunset! So we went all the way to the end for a good viewpoint, and enjoyed the view as it went down. :)




Lighthouse!
The farthest accessible point on the
Iberian Peninsula! I'm glad this picture came out...
It was basically pitch black out there without
the lamps or sun!




By the time we walked back it was dark! Then a big Italian feast and sleeping. No night out for us! The next morning we went on a kayak tour!! It was so much fun! We took Kayaks out through the grottos, going in and around them to get a great view of some beautiful and inaccessible beaches! We also took a couple swims- on intentional, one less so. I have some new scars to prove it!




Waterproof camera= wonderful.


Kelsey and I in our kayak!
We then crawled through that center hole...
...to get to this cave! We couldn't stay long because it was
too windy to be safe. We kept getting buffeted against the
walls. There was a lot of blood. But worth it!
That wave is about to push us off the ledge.

The beach we stopped for a swim at!

Then, after all that excitement it was showers, food, siesta, and back on the streets for some exploring! 

Lunch was at this pretty far away place, but it was so good! Think Jamba, but with a view of the ocean. I had a falafel wrap and this really strange ginger-carrot juice. It tasted healthy. Then we parted ways, me to wander the city, and Kelsey took to the beach. (I opted to avoid the salt water and sand because my cuts were freshly iodine-d and bandaged. Thanks attractive lifeguard!).


In my wanderings, I heard absolutely beautiful music. There was a mass happening at this adorable little white church. I wasn't dressed properly, so I was just going to hang out around the gate, but this little homeless woman came and sat with me and told me it was okay to go inside. I was speaking Spanish, and she was speaking Portuguese, but they're close enough together that we were able to understand each other. I asked, if that's true, then why are you out here? She told me that inside gets too hot for her, and she has a heart condition, and so she can't go inside for very long at a time. I sat with her on the church steps and listened to the rest of the service. It was really, really nice. I peeked inside as people were leaving and listened to the choir practice for a bit, the inside was as adorable as the exterior! The conversation really affected me. I teared up a bit as I was walking away and praying for her.

inside the little white church
The church I went to, situated on the old slave
trading market.
Portugal makes something like 80% of the world's cork.
There are a bunch of cute artisan shops that have figured out
how to turn it into a flexible, waterproof, gets better with age
material for building! If this tote hadn't been outrageously
expensive I would for sure own it.



A typical Portuguese sweet is the Marzipan!
I love this stuff, it's so much better than any
I've had in the states!
The dog at our hostel! His name translates to
"Bear"- reasonable, as he's absolutely huge
and fluffy! This dog took up an entire bathroom
when lying on the cold tile floor.


The crest of Portugal
The harbor


found a cool mural!

Walking along the water. There's a water taxi that can take
you across the canal to the biggest beach in Portugal.
Then it was dinner time! We decided to try out this hole in the wall place that everyone kept telling us about! They were voted one of the 50 best burgers in the the world according to some travel magazine.
THEY TOTALLY DESERVE THAT TITLE.



Homemade veggie burger, complete with potato
slices in the best sauce I've ever had. That's my
regular sized glass next to it, this burger was HUGE
Kelsey and I finished the night with a bottle of
GREEN wine on the balcony of our hostel.
Like 3E, and so delicious!!! If I wasn't such
a lightweight I would have drank the whole thing.


The next morning was our last in Portugal, so we made the most of it by touring the city until the last possible moment! We went to their science museum (the one in the first set of pictures!) first. It was basically a naval history of Portugal, and since it was geared towards kids... SO FUN! Plus since it was early in the morning it was basically just us. Think being alone in Pacific Science Center. Nerdy and marvelous!

Then we took a quick run back to the beach and I took Kelsey to try marzipan before returning to the bus station. We had just arrived when the bus pulled in, and our punctuality was rewarded by a 7 and a half hour bus ride on a packed bus because they accidentally sold more seats than they had. Adventure!

I'd love to make it back to Portugal someday. Their scuba is supposed to be great, as well as their snorkeling. We didn't get a chance to try it because the conditions were bad during our whirlwind weekend. It's okay though, cause we still managed to more than fill our time! :)

More tomorrow, cause this is a ketchup game! (Did you ever play that in elementary school?)
XOXO, Katie